Day 9 : Leh - Karu - Pangong Tso - Karu - Pang

Day 9 : Events (Aug 23)

• Started from Leh towards Karu
• Headed to Pangong lake
• Had lunch near the lake and roamed on the road around the lake for a km or two
• Started from Pangong lake towards Karu
• Reached Karu and had momos and coffee
• Left Karu at around 6:30 pm for Pang (BIG MISTAKE!)
• Rode through sub 10 degrees temperature for over 100 km at night and somehow made it to Pang by 10:30 pm. Luckily that we didn't get frostbite riding at such low temperatures for so long on the high-altitude mountain roads. Forgot to tell you, there were no roads for 50+ km.

Route:

Leh -  Karu - Pangong-Tso - Karu - Pang

Road condition:

Leh to Karu is a small length of 30+ km of good tar road (as you would expect from a highway). There would be a lot of dust though, the same as one would experience in Leh.

Karu to Pangong-Tso has good rideable roads for the most part of the 100+ km. At times I came across gravel/non-tar roads but very less. The only challenges on this route are water crossings and white sand patches. Here are my tips for both:

Water crossings: The length of a water crossing could vary from 10 feet up to 30 feet. Go slow in a lower gear, as there might be deeper sections that may not be clearly visible while riding. Riding slowly would splash less water onto your clothes and luggage. Also, keep your distance from your front and back vehicles (if any). Falling in water with luggage would be a mess, so if at all you need to stop and put both feet down in the water. It's ok. Then start riding again. Make sure your exhaust pipe doesn't sip any water as you pass through.

White Sand Patches: These patches are dynamic and get formed on the tar road based on wind speed and direction. If you come across one, again the rule of thumb is to ride slowly but firmly using the right (lower) gear. DO NOT RIDE WITH A CLUTCH ON SAND. DO NOT DO THAT!

Always keep the rear wheel powered. If still you experience a wobble, slow down further and put your both feet down until you stop. Then start again slowly. That's all.

Climate/Weather:

The climate was cold all through, but during the clear sky daytime, sun rays are strong too. So when on the bike I was getting cold breeze, but if I stand longer in the sun I feel the heat.

Fuel Stops:

Karu :

Rs 1000 / 79.74 pl = 12.5 Ltrs

No fuel available at Pangong-Tso. So the nearest filling station is Karu.

Karu : (Before heading to Pang)

Rs 580 / 79.74 pl = 7 Ltrs

Sun is playing hide and seek with the valley.

Me and Sameer on the way toward the lake

Remember the water crossing I mentioned in Day#7's post. Well..there you go!

The scariest part of crossing such streams is the surface underneath the water is uneven (rocks/stones/etc) and you don't know if there is a pothole. If there is one, how deep it could be.

It's a great feeling when you make it to the other side, dry!:) Well almost:P

Never Ever!!

Another lake on the way to Pangong. Not the famous one, but it doesn't make it any less beautiful in my eyes.

Cloudy mountain near Pangong lake.

BEFORE

It was very cloudy and there was a mild drizzle when we reached Pangong lake. This was the color of the water when we reached the lake. Yes, it was as ordinary/usual looking as any other lake you or I might have seen. 

But when we were about to leave, something (maybe it was Murali) whispered in our ears to take a ride along the shore of the lake and we did exactly that. We started riding on the shoreline of the lake looking at the beautiful mountains around and just then the clouds parted and the clear sky made an appearance. My God!! It was a long time since I had last experienced something I can call magic. The whole bloody lake turned blue like a sapphire. We couldn't believe our eyes. We jammed our brakes and stood still wherever we were on that narrow road and just stared at the lake for some time. Man...it was an awesome experience. I got down from the bike and took a few shots, sharing those here.

AFTER

The mystical Pangong lake with unbelievably blue water.

Cold breeze, mild drizzle, chapped lips, and a dent on the tank pretty much sum it up.. :)

Notice the shoreline where the water is shallow, there is a tinge of emerald green color. Not sure if the lake turns to that color too at some point. I would love to see that someday.

Heaven!

The 'Key' to heaven! 

Now you must remember, finding either of these ain't enough when in Ladakh, you gotta have both 'In Time' !! :P

Saying adieu to the beautiful Pangong-Tso.

This snow wasn't there a few hours ago when we passed through this route while going to the lake.

 "The land is so barren and passes are so high that only the best of friends and fiercest of enemies would want to visit us."                                            

                                                                                                      ~ Local Ladakhi Saying

Another picturesque road on the way back from Pangong-Tso.

Had some delicious paneer momo and sugar-less (didn't ask for it though) coffee at Karu.

Tanked up at Karu, before starting for the risky endeavor of reaching Pang by night.

This shows the route from Leh to Pangong-Tso only. Though we rode back to Karu and then to Pang by night. I think my phone had died out by then for Google to know where we went afterward :P

Well..this is the route we took and how!

Night Halt:

Place                   : Pang

Accommodation : A concrete structure with cloth and tar (yes! you read it right) roof for warmth

Cost per Person : Rs 100  (in a common space)

Room Capacity   : 6 + luggage

Other Details     :

- Bikes parked just outside the house (its so cold, you in your right mind won't thing of stealing a bike, in case you did, you can't run anywhere!)

- A couple/family runs this setup and provides snacks (tea, coffee, noodles, etc), cooked food (parantha, roti, dal, sabzi) as well as packed confectioneries (chips, chocolates, biscuits, etc) in another room in a nominal cost.

- Not that I care but whoa they had a tv :)

- There is a hot water facility for brushing teeth and washing face

- A clean (relatively speaking) Indian-style toilet was also available (out of the two drums with water, one had gotten frozen on the surface in the morning o_O)

- Many other tent shops and accommodations are also available in Pang at a decent cost

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Day 8 : Hunder (Nubra Valley) - Khardung-La - Leh

Day 8 : Event (Aug 22)

• Got up and we three folded the tent and packed our riding luggage
• Started from Hunder after breakfast (push started the bike)
• Stopped at Diskit to see a mechanic named Padma
• Waited for almost 45 minutes for him to open his garage (as it was too early for a sleepy town)
• Got the battery charged using a Solar Cell, took an hour of waiting and then another hour to charge
• Moved to Khardung-La and then down to Leh
• I had a skid on my way down from Khardung-La due to my high downhill speed and a sand trap, but nothing major happened except some bruises and a small cut
• Stayed at Leh for the night
• Thanks to Murali for providing these cool shots of me crossing the water body. Thanks a bunch, buddy, your kind help is much appreciated!!:)

Route:

Hunder (Nubra Valley) - Khardung-La - Leh

Road condition:

Same as Day#7

Climate/Weather:

Same as Day#7

Fuel Stops:
None

Sunrise at the campsite.

This stream was the source of water for our camping needs.

Murali and Sameer get up.

Waiting outside Padma's garage at Diskit.

Arrgghh the climb till Khardung-La again! While returning from Nubra Valley, to reach Leh.

After a wonderful experience returned back to Leh crossing the breathtakingly beautiful yet treacherous route.

Night Halt:

Place                : Leh

Accommodation : Reeyork Hotel, Near Police Station Area (Same as Day#6)

Cost per room    : Rs 900  (Got ground floor room, which was colder than upstairs where we stayed the first time around)

Room Capacity   : 2 + 1 additional mattress

Other Details     : 

- Bikes parked inside hotel's main gate

- Simple rooms with hot water facility, but not available all the time

- For the shower I needed hot water, rest all chores were manageable in cold water

- Food quality and taste were not bad, and the cost of food was almost the same as outside (so when feeling lazy it makes sense to order here)

- Owner/Odly-acting-like-owner was a stingy guy and was trying to make money out of everything

- Leh is the district and I found it has the most modern conveniences, so for any needs, it's a good idea to roam around in the market

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Day 7 : Leh - Khardung-La - Diskit - Hunder (Nubra Valley)

Day 7 : Events (Aug 21)

• Morning 8:30 am had an appointment for my bullet check-up with Mohan Sharma
• The bullet battery had drained out completely and had to push start it on a slope near the hotel in Leh
• After getting the bike checked (didn't find any issue with Battery) headed to Nubra
• Passed Khardung-La and stopped for photos (yet to get hold of the photos of me riding)
• Headed to Diskit and then to Hunder
• Put a tent near the River in Hunder (Nubra Valley) and spent the rest of the night at the river bank and mostly inside the tent. It was an awesome experience

Route:

Leh - Khardung-La - Diskit - Hunder (Nubra Valley)

Road condition:

Leh till Khardung-La : Good...Bad...Worse...Freezing Cold...Low Oxygen...Worst...Sigh, you get used to it and then 'Hey I can see a Sign Board' :)

Once you are on the top at the KL, do what you do (take photos, etc) and better start descending again (soon,) either towards Leh or towards Nubra Valley. I chose to move toward the latter one. Standing at the pass for a long time in the extreme cold and low pressure may cause discomfort or worse AMS. So avoid goofing around on any of the passes for longer, unless you are very comfortable at high altitudes and cold places.

Khardung-La till the base of the mountains (towards Nubra Valley):

Worst than what you might have seen while coming up to Khardung-La from the Leh side. But the good news is, once you make it through to the planes on Nubra's side, the exotic view of sand dunes and beautiful golden mountains would more than makeup for the trouble you faced on the way. This region has been my favorite part of this trip and the struggle to reach here was totally worth it. 

Climate/Weather:

As you climb up from Leh to Khardungla, the temperature will drop drastically and I was shivering inside my jacket with thermal liners and winter riding gloves (both I had shopped in the UK, which is a cold country btw). I was using a half-face helmet and was using a buff as a face mask all through. During this climb, my face was exposed to the cold breeze and chill factor and by the time I reached the top, my skin felt like paper. Dry, crisp, thin, and white due to dryness. It was difficult, once I took off the gloves for operating the camera.

As you climb down from Khardung-La towards Nubra (or even towards Leh), the altitude drops and it feels more normal (relaxing) to breathe. Sunlight gives enough warmth and the temperature is also in a decent range, say 15-17 degrees C (I guess).

Fuel Stops:

Leh:

Rs 600 / 79 pl = 7.5 Ltrs

Don't remember seeing (or even hearing) about a petrol bunk in Nubra Valley. So you should've tanked up in Leh while leaving for Khardung-La. That's what I did.

At a roundabout in Leh, just before starting the journey for the day.

Another drool-worthy view, I just couldn't ride through without stopping for a picture.

A view of Khardung-La.

5 out of the team of 6 made it here. Not easy I tell you. Now I have a lot of respect for anyone who has attempted this route.

I wanted to send Dad a pic of his bike on the highest motorable road in the world and am glad I could do it while the bike still has the original registration plate:)

I believe!

Himalayan Yak! I tried whistling to get its attention, and when it finally turned, I didn't get any positive vibes :P So I just stopped doing that nonsense.

Some fellow riders pass through. Yellow JK number plates are of rented (hired) motorcycles.

Sameer posing as a Ninja in the freezing temperature:D This checkpost is after crossing Khardung-La and we had some chow mein with egg here. The taste was horrible, but some hot food saved our lives after the KL ordeal.

See the terrain and color of the mountains here and notice the gradual change as we get deeper into the Nubra Valley.

Sand storm on the river bank, but it appears as if it's on the water's surface.

Beautiful view of a golden mountain.

A typical view of the region, which is also known as the 'Cold Desert'.

Sunset view in the 'Cold Desert'.

When the sun hides behind the mountains, the whole valley is engulfed in darkness and with fading sunlight, its warmth fades away.

Another straight stretch.

Ahem! With my scratched DSLR screen protector, I couldn't make out the sharpness, so it's not the best possible shot. Still, that's all I have for this trip:)

Sunset view in Nubra Valley

Inside the tent. After a long day's ride, we three set up the tent to crash for the night, on the bank of Shyok River

Few visits to the mechanic shops and a bit of fooling around inside the city, before I left for Khardung-La and then off to Nubra Valley.

Night Halt:

Place                : Hunder, Nubra Valley

Accommodation : Tent, On Shyok river bank

Cost per room    : Free (may have to pay local authority a small amount like 100 bucks per tent)

Tent Capacity   : 5 people OR Like we used it for 3 people + luggage for 3 riders

Other Details     :

- The whole area is full of various tourist agencies that provide tents and food at a cost

- It was not necessary to go through them, so we put up our own tent after enquiring from a few local people

- Food can be arranged from nearby restaurants before 8 pm (which cost us appx 500 bucks for 3 people)

- A warm sleeping bag and thermals should be enough to manage the temperature at night

- One dude who owns a resort on the river bank told us, he owns the cold desert area, so we can pick any spot and just pay him a fair amount. Glad we didn't fall for that :D

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