Sunday, 31 August 2014

Day 4 : Srinagar - Gulmarg - Srinagar - Sonmarg

Day 4 : Events (Aug 18)


  • Bit bored and annoyed with the family vacation routine followed by this group so far, I gave a heads up to all that am riding solo from now on and would catch up with all during night halts
  • Two more riders liked the idea and we three split up from the rest and headed to Gulmarg
  • Had a quick visit to Gulmarg
  • Picked up a monkey cap for the rest of the ride (just in case)
  • Enjoyed the horn-free twisties Gulmarg had to offer
  • Came back to Srinagar to meet a friend.
  • Rode through Munwaar and Lal Bazar
  • Met my college friend and her family and spent some time chatting
  • Left Srinagar at around 5 pm and rode through Dal lake road
  • Reached Sonmarg around 8 pm and stayed in Tents

Route:
Srinagar - Gulmarg - Srinagar - Sonmarg


Road condition:
While leaving Srinagar for Gulmarg, there were some busy market areas I had to cross and there was a traffic jam. This is expected, so I suggest you better plan your travel time for this and don't be in a rush like I was. Nevertheless, it was manageable. Once I left the city and got onto the road to Gulmarg, the roads are good and traffic was less. The uphill climb to Gulmarg top was awesome to ride a motorcycle on. Enjoyed it thoroughly.

Same road one has to take while returning from Gulmarg to Srinagar, however, instead of entering Srinagar city, one can take the bypass road to Sonmarg. I had to come back to the city to meet a friend, so couldn't get time to use the bypass road.

The road from Srinagar to Sonmarg is in excellent condition and full of scenic beauty. Now I think, it beats Scotland in my books.

Climate/Weather:
In Srinagar, the weather was pleasant and there was no sign of rain. However, while entering Srinagar at night it was quite cold due to a shower that happened a few days ago. As you climb Sonmarg it gets colder, yet can be managed with thermals and layered clothing.

Fuel Stops:
Munwaar, Srinagar: 
Rs 500 / 78.00 pl = 6.4 Ltrs


The first sight of mountains at the base of Gulmarg.

After filling up petrol at Munwaar, Srinagar


At a friend's place in Srinagar. Having tea and a casual chat on the weather, the journey so far, and the roads ahead.


After spending a good time, it was time to start for Sonmarg.

Roadside view of Dal lake. Stopped near the famous Dal Lake. Didn't have enough time to explore, so decided to skip it and move on. 


On the way to Sonmarg, locals have a look at the bike and all the luggage setup.


Passing through some lush green fields and as can be seen from this photograph, sunlight just makes everything glow.




After enjoying some plane roads, mountains start to appear again, reminding me that I am heading toward Sonmarg.


Few houses and shops on the way.


The view gets better and better. I couldn't help but compare the scenery with that I had seen in the highlands of Scotland (UK) while I and Balaji were driving through.




Stopped for some refreshments.


Enjoying tea on the way to Sonmarg.


Having a chat with Mohd Lateef, who lives in a village up the mountains. He owns a chai shop and very soft-spoken and shy person.

Sun starts to go behind the taller mountains, and the valley starts to glow in the reflected passive light.








Me and Murali trying out combinations of long exposure and light painting. This was the only usable shot we could come up with before we decided to get into our warm sleeping bags sandwiched between layers of quilts and mattresses inside the tent :D


That double line is when I went to Gulmarg and then came back to the city before leaving for Sonmarg.


Night Halt:
Place                : Sonmarg Glaciers
Accommodation : Tent, Tajhwa Camping Site
Cost per tent     : Rs 1000
Tent Capacity    : 3
Other Details     :
- All tents are inside a roped fence and bikes are parked inside
- Each tent has attached western commode and basin with 24 hours (cold) water supply
- Basic but good food provided at additional cost
- Waking up in the morning among the snow-covered glaciers is worth every penny


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Day 2 : Ludhiana - Amritsar - Jammu

Day 2 : Events (Aug 16)


  • Started from Ludhiana by around 9 am
  • Got into Amritsar to visit Golden Temple and touch up on Wagah Border
  • Got boiled up with traffic and heat while reaching Golden Temple
  • Visited Golden temple in 2 batches (each batch would guard the bikes and luggage in turn) and started the journey again at around 3-4pm (skipped Wagah border visit)
  • Reached Pathankot and enquired about the direct road to Udhampur
  • Changed plan, and instead of Udhampur, started towards Jammu city which was 70 km away
  • Rode through mountains to reach Jammu.
  • Took a right turn from Jammu chowk toward Srinagar
  • Then followed a guy through twists and turns to reach an area with few budget hotels
  • Found one for 1200 per room.
  • Had good food (chicken, jeera rice, egg curry, and roti)
  • Me, Naren, and Murali shared a room.
Route:
Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Amritsar - Pathankot - Jammu

Road condition:
Till Pathankot, it's again Punjab highways, so I maintained a good speed. From Jalandhar to Amritsar is a single-lane high traffic, high-risk overtaking route. So had to be alert and careful all the time. Just before reaching Pathankot, the highway gets narrow briefly and the number of trucks increases causing slow-moving traffic and occasional jams. Again after Pathankot, roads are decent till Jammu. So not many problems there.

Climate/Weather:
Punjab was hot and humid, but good cruising speeds on highways, more than compensates for the same. As one crosses Pathankot, the cold breeze can be felt and the surroundings get cooler (than Punjab).

Fuel Stops:
Ludhiana : 
Rs 740 / 72.00 pl = 10.3 Ltrs



Filled at a bunk while leaving Ludhiana.



Entrance to Lovely University, near Jalandhar


Pointers on the way guiding towards Amritsar.

Murali rolled past my parked bike.






MG waves off as he overtakes.


Sameer stops to pose for a shot.

Kept the shoes in counter# 7, which had less crowd










After bearing through the hot and humid weather in Punjab since our arrival, I just loved standing in the cold water spots before the stairs.


We were parted with few members amid the chaotic traffic and bad roads.


It was a refreshing site for me and provided a good breather for Pegasus too.

Getting my mobile charger wiring fixed in Punjab. The crowd around gathered out of curiosity to meet us and see the bikes.


There was a narrow road and a trail of trucks, just before reaching Pathankot.

The first sight of mountains after riding for 500 km.

Punjab to Jammu route that we took.

Night Halt:
Place                : Jammu-Srinagar Highway
Accommodation : Some hotel
Cost per room    : Rs 1200
Room Capacity   : 2 + 1 additional mattress
Other Details     :
- Bikes parked at the entrance of the hotel with the guard keeping an eye
- Food (dinner/breakfast) charges were separate
- Food quality and taste were great, but expensive


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Day 3 : Jammu - Srinagar

Day 3 : Events (Aug 17)


  • Rode from Jammu towards Srinagar
  • Crossing some challenging ghat roads in really dangerous conditions and sharing the road with trucks, buses, and few cars.
  • Was wondering how my friends traveling by bus must be feeling going through this route, where I struggled to ride a motorcycle through.
  • While struggling through the tough terrain and damaged roads, the first feel of Kashmir appears when I reached Banihal. Rivers, greenery, and a beautiful valley with people dressed in traditional attires.
  • Keep on going straight and I got closer to Srinagar, but the road got worse with every mile
  • The last 50 or so kilometers to Srinagar were the worst till now, due to roads under construction and tons (and tons and tons) of dust blown by the vehicles going in the front.
  • Due to a half-face helmet and unusable visor, I had a tough time making it to Srinagar
  • Finally reached Srinagar at around 10 pm
  • Stayed in a hotel near Batwara Chowk after crossing many Indian Army setups.

Route:
Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Amritsar - Pathankot - Jammu

Road condition:
Till Pathankot, it's again Punjab highways, so I maintained a good speed. From Jalandhar to Amritsar is a single-lane high traffic, high-risk overtaking route. So had to be alert and careful all the time. Just before reaching Pathankot, the highway gets narrow briefly and the number of trucks increases causing slow-moving traffic and occasional jams. Again after Pathankot, roads are decent till Jammu. So not many problems there.

Climate/Weather:
Punjab was hot and humid, but good cruising speeds on highways, more than compensates for the same. As one crosses Pathankot, the cold breeze can be felt and the surroundings get cooler (than Punjab).

Fuel Stops:
Somewhere between Jammu and Patnitop: 
Rs 599 / 82.04 pl = 7.3 Ltrs



An Epic-Selfie attempt (pun intended!) during breakfast near Jammu.








Excellent roads from Jammu towards Srinagar. Alas, they only lasted for 20-30 km.







On the first look at this stretch, I thought, going ahead may be this is how the dangerous mountain roads would look like. Well, I was so wrong. Now looking back, this very stretch would be the last thing I would recall as dangerous or even remotely risky.


One of the numerous bridges connects the mountain roads.



Getting tire pressure checked. Wasn't very sure if I would get to find a garage ahead for this.




The line/road in the background is where I just came through.




This is what valleys look like. River just adds to the beauty.


Entering Banihal.




Jenab, ye hai river 'Chenab' :)

Inside Jawahar Tunnel, the length was close to 3 km. I enjoyed every moment while riding through this tunnel. However, it was very noisy when a train (I guess) passed over it when I was near the exit. Also, it may appear to be a bit spooky, if you are riding through it alone.

For some reasons important to me, arriving in this city for the first time on a motorcycle marks a day in my biography for sure.


Night Halt:
Place                : Batwara Chowk, Srinagar
Accommodation : Modern Residency
Cost per room    : Rs 
Room Capacity   : 4 + 2 additional mattress
Other Details     :
- Bikes parked at the entrance of the hotel with the guard keeping an eye
- Food (dinner/breakfast) charges were separate
- Food quality and taste were great, but expensive



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Day 1 : Ghaziabad - Delhi - Ludhiana

DAY 1 : Events (Aug 15)
  • Slept well and got up at 6:30 am and started packing my saddle bags
  • Realized my helmet padding is missing, must have left it at home in Bangalore
  • Once packing was done, went downstairs (10-12 floors) to unwrap the bike
  • Unwrapped the layers of bubble wrap, tapes, and carton sheets, amidst the truckload of dust settled on the bike
  • Found some damage to the tank, the fog lamp, etc, took pictures of the same to share with GATI
  • Took the bikes to bunk, filled enough for Delhi
  • Couldn't find a decent helmet shop in Ghaziabad to source padding for my LS2, so finally bought a half helmet for 400 bucks and continued riding.
  • Filled the fuel tank till the brim (literally) as petrol was cheaper in Delhi, and continued towards Jalandhar, the planned location for night halt
  • Reached Ludhiana by late at night (9 pm) and decided to call it a day, as Jalandhar was still 60kms and many people were struggling to ride at night
  • A few Punjabi youth insisted us to experience stay at a nearby Gurdwara instead of a hotel and I kind of liked the idea
  • So stayed in Gurdwara for the night, with bikes safely parked inside the premises


Route:
New Delhi - Sonepat - Panipat - Karnal - Patiala - Ludhiana

Road condition:
Punjab's 90% (or more) highways are in really good condition. I maintained 80kph on average, except for the part when I crossed busy cities on the way, but that was for short periods.

Climate/Weather:
Extremely hot and humid. Make sure the riding jackets and helmet has ventilation. The good part is, as the roads are good, once I started riding, the wind kept me cool all through.

Fuel Stops:
Ghaziabad : 
Rs 200 /  = 2 Ltrs

Delhi:
Rs 1400 / 70.13 pl = 19 Ltrs (Full Tank)


Good Morning Ghaziabad :)


A leisurely halt on the way to Ludhiana.


Coconut water - The best, most healthy, and safe refreshment while riding in hotter Indian states.

A beautiful view of the fields, where children were working and playing.

Taking a break on the side of the highway.


Rode all the way to Ludhiana and reached it by night.


Travel route for this day.


Night Halt:
Place                  : Ludhiana
Accommodation: Gurudwara next to the highway to Jalandhar
Cost per room    : Rs 200 (just a cover charge)
Room Capacity  : 6 people with luggage
Other Details      :
- One has to wear something on the head (bandanna/handkerchief/buff) while entering the premises
- Strictly no alcohol/cigarettes in possession
- Rooms are neat and tidy with attached bathroom
- Peaceful environment
- Breakfast is served in the morning as part of Gurudwara rituals



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Friday, 29 August 2014

Yeh 'L E H' !!!

Hi there,


This post marks the completion of my Leh tour. And I am happy to share that I checked off the following few items from my riding TO-DO list:

  • A round trip from the capital city of India, Delhi2Delhi : Long Way Round
  • Visiting the beautiful valley of Kashmir on a motorcycle
  • Riding through Khardung-La, one of the world's highest motorable roads


Just like any other trips I have done earlier, this one presented it's own set of challenges, learnings and breathtaking moments. Without these ingredients, traveling on a motorcycle wouldn't be as exciting. Slowly I have come to realize, not everyone would have what it takes to fulfill such dreams. We all have set (consciously or subconsciously) our own capacities to accomplish things. Some of us willingly push these limits to see how far we can go. This trip was my attempt to push my personal limits on riding/planning/convincing-parents/preparing etc and no doubt as I completed the trip, I don't see the same limits which, I had started the journey with. The bonus of this deal is the beautiful memories I have of the journey to look back to. Some of which I was able to capture through my lens, which you can see in the daily ride posts of this trip. Hope you enjoy being part of this experience.

To make it easier to follow, I have split up the 12 days of travel into daily posts, which would have mostly the photograph of places I went through, some details on fuel, and accommodation, and then maybe some of my experience, that I could recall at this point.

Well, let's begin from the beginning when we flew (no literally!) to Delhi and that got the ball rolling.

Flight route from Bangalore to New Delhi. Looks pretty straight eh?!! That was the last time I saw a straight line on my route map.


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Ride Safe & Ride Far,

Sid


PS: I shall update the posts with more details and write-ups as I find the time. Till then enjoy the photographs:)